DIY Guitar Making Videos

When A Bridge Removal Goes Bad!

#22 when a bridge removal goes bad

My Canadian friend brought me a Norman guitar with a lifting bridge, a belly bulge, and long run-out splits in the soundboard beginning just forward of the belly bulge. These are all symptoms of the same problem: too much tension at the bridge.

Lifting bridge and belly bulge
A lifting bridge

 

First, the bulge in the belly needed to be reduced, then the bridge removed and reglued. Finally cleats were installed on the inside of the guitar to patch up the splits in the spruce. I also glued a thin graft to the underside of the area that was worn thin by years of heavy picking.

Attaching cleats to the soundboard
The cleats are placed on the outside of the guitar to demonstrate to the camera where they will be located. Of course, they will be glued to the INSIDE of the guitar. Bottom Right: A set of magnets is used to glue the cleats.

I will save the details for belly reduction, removal of bridges, regluing of bridges and installation of cleats for another time. For Episode #22 I want to focus specifically on what to do between bridge removal and bridge reglue… when a bridge removal goes bad!

Not every bridge comes off clean. Even when you do everything right, some amount of tearout in the soundboard is expected. If the damage is minimal, which is usually the case, the bridge can be re-glued without any patching of the soundboard. If the tearout is significant enough to negatively affect the glue joint, then patching of the area is necessary. The patch may be the size of a dime or much larger.

In this worst case scenario the footprint under the bridge was affected throughout. I unfortunately never took a “before” picture of the damage, but take my word for it, it was bad!

Why did this happen? In this case, the lifting bridge had progressed so far, and in such a way, that the spruce had already begun tearing out before bridge removal even began.

My solution was to rout out the entire footprint of the bridge to a depth that eliminates 95% of the damage, and install a spruce patch.

I say “95% of the damage” because certain areas of tearout were so deep that it was neither sensible nor necessary to rout the whole footprint to such a depth.

 

Rout bridge area for patch
Notice the small areas of tearout that remain after routing. This is acceptable.

I routed the pocket with a 3/32″ bit in a dremel tool and a Stewmac saddle routing jig. Any “sled” type device that fits a dremel tool will work for this. The saddle routing jig works particularly well because of the Baseplate Travel Stops and the Jig Reference Plate (see image below).

The Baseplate Travel Stops prevent me from accidentally routing beyond the area of the footprint. The Jig Reference Plate allows me to work my way from the front of the bridge to the rear in multiple, parallel passes by adjusting the Jig Guide Plate to the Jig Reference Plate and then resetting the Jig Reference Plate with feeler gauge tabs after every pass. I’ve borrowed the image below from Stewmac’s website. This should hopefully help illustrate what I am talking about, even though the picture shows the jig routing a saddle slot, which is it’s actual, intended purpose.

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For the majority of the rout I do not have to adjust the Baseplate Travel Stops. It is only for the rounded section of the footprint in the back that I need to adjust the travel stops inward after each pass. The 2 curved sections of the footprint (indicated by the arrows) then have to be touched up carefully with a chisel and/or a razor

Arrows bridge wings

An oversized spruce patch is cut to shape and glued in place.

Glue a spruce patch to footprint

I level the patch with a thumb plane and fine-tune it with sandpaper on a flat block.

 

Level spruce patch in bridge footprint

Level bridge patch with sandpaper

 

Once the patch is flat and level with the surrounding lacquer, I turn my attention to cleaning up the mating surface of the bridge.

Ordinarily for a bridge glue, I would sand the mating surface to the radius of the guitar top. The patch, however, has no radius, so the mating surface of the bridge is sanded flat on a granite block.

 

Flatten bridge

I relocated the bridge and clamped it in place so that I could mark the pin holes on the new patch and drill.

Spruce patch in bridge footprint (2)

The guitar is now ready for a standard bridge glue-up.

After the Glue-up: Since the spruce patch sits level with the surrounding lacquer, rather than level with the wood of the soundboard, I made sure to seal around the bridge with brush on lacquer. You can also use superglue. Either way, it should be carefully applied.
Was this useful? I would love to hear your questions or comments! I try to answer every e-mail I receive, so please be patient with me :) eric@ericschaeferguitars.com

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Quartersawn Vs. Flatsawn: Guitar Bracing

Quartersawn Vs. Flatsawn: Guitar Bracing

This is an excerpt from “Roughing Out the Braces”
https://ericschaeferguitars.com/course/building-an-om-acoustic/

Transcript:
Now we are going to rough out our brace blanks from billets of spruce. Before we get started with that we just need to understand the difference between quarter sawn and flat sawn.

To get a better understanding of quarter sawn vs. flat sawn lets take a look at the source of the spruce.

First, look at the top of the diagram. The end grain pattern of quartersawn wood is nearly 90 degrees to the face of the board.

This nearly vertical grain orientation imparts the structural integrity that we need if the braces are glued with the quartersawn face up.

In contrast, look at the bottom of the diagram. The end grain pattern of flat sawn wood is nearly parallel or 0 degrees to the face of the board.

Braces glued with the flatsawn face up will have significantly less structural integrity.

This is why we glue our braces with the quartersawn face up.

If you are having a hard time determining which face is quartersawn, then you may have a riftsawn board.

Riftsawn boards are somewhere between quarter and flat sawn with an end grain pattern close to 45 degrees.

Don’t expect all your brace stock to be perfectly quartersawn along its length.

Boards with an end grain pattern as skewed as 60 degrees to the face are acceptable.

A good rule of thumb is: If you can’t determine which face is the quartersawn face, then the board is rift sawn and it should be tossed.

This is the quarter sawn face. As you can see the grain lines are very close together. That is because the grain lines are coming out at the camera.

This is the flat sawn face. This is because the grain lines are coming out at an angle. As you can see there are no tight grain lines.

On all of our braces we are going to have the quartersawn face standing up and the flat sawn faces on the sides.

Joining the Plates

Eric Schaefer Guitars’ Online Guitar Building School

 

This is a free video from the “Building an OM Acoustic” Course. Click here for more free video tutorials.

Was this useful? I would love to hear your questions or comments! I try to answer every e-mail I receive, so please be patient with me :) eric@ericschaeferguitars.com

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Thicknessing the Plates

Eric Schaefer Guitars’ Online Guitar Building SchoolGuitar Building School | Online Course

 

 

This is a free video from the “Building an OM Acoustic” Course. Click here for more free video tutorials.

Was this useful? I would love to hear your questions or comments! I try to answer every e-mail I receive, so please be patient with me :) eric@ericschaeferguitars.com

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Making the Rosette

Eric Schaefer Guitars’ Online Guitar Building School

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40fGHGK-yPw

This is a free video from the “Building an OM Acoustic” Course. Click here for more free video tutorials.

Was this useful? I would love to hear your questions or comments! I try to answer every e-mail I receive, so please be patient with me :) eric@ericschaeferguitars.com

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Installing the Rosette

Eric Schaefer Guitars’ Online Guitar Building School

 

This is a free video from the “Building an OM Acoustic” Course. Click here for more free video tutorials.

Was this useful? I would love to hear your questions or comments! I try to answer every e-mail I receive, so please be patient with me :) eric@ericschaeferguitars.com

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Tools – Eric Schaefer Guitars – Online Guitar Building School

Eric Schaefer Guitars’ Online Guitar Building School

 

This is a free video from the “Building an OM Acoustic” Course. Click here for more free video tutorials.

In this lesson we will discuss various tools around my shop. This is just to get the gears turning in your head. This is not meant to be a comprehensive list of necessities. I urge the student to make NO tool purchases at this time. It is much wiser and more economical to rent, borrow or purchase tools as you go, lesson by lesson. Not every builder uses the same tools so you may find that your situation calls for a different setup than mine.

Lesson Transcript:

The last two lessons prompted you to take action: to order a set of plans and to order the parts and materials for your guitar. This lesson, however, is going to be just a little bit different. I urge you to put away the credit card for now and just listen. I am going to show you some of the tools around my shop. some of these tools are totally necessary while others are just plain fun, or they make the job easier.

You are encouraged to take notes but not encouraged to purchase any of the tools you see here… yet.

What I really want you to do is this: As you go through the content of this course, lesson by lesson, purchase the tools as you go. It is much smarter that way. You will end up making wiser purchases and you won’t have any extra junk tools around the shop that you never really use.

I also encourage students to rent or borrow tools as much as possible. There is likely a woodshop or maker’s space in your area where you can rent time, especially on some of the larger equipment such as thickness sanders or bandsaws.

Call up some friends. Look on Craig’s list. It is very likely that a lot of these tools are right under your fingertips if you look hard enough.

#5 Jack Plane

The #5 Jack Plane finds a myriad of uses around my shop, most notably for jointing long edges, such as the joint for the top and back plates. I also use this general purpose plane for thicknessing stock before fine-tuning the thickness on a drum sander.

Thumb Plane

This miniature handplane made from an ebony block is called a thumb plane. It is certainly not a necessity, but it does make some jobs, like trimming brace tops, a whole lot of fun.

Block Plane

The block plane is an excellent companion to the jack plane. The block plane is useful for jointing edges and thicknessing small surfaces such as the scarf joint for the neck.

Chisels

I use 4 chisels for work on guitars. I use a 1″, 3/4″, 1/4″ and an 1/8″ chisel. It is wiser to invest in a good quality 1″ and 1/4″ chisel, rather than a whole set of cheap, low quality chisels. I do, however keep some bargain variety chisels, such as this one, around for general use in the shop, just to save the edge on my good chisels.

Spokeshave

The spokeshave was designed for use in shaping and smoothing curved surfaces, such as chair legs, wheel spokes and, in this case, guitar necks. Make sure your spokeshave has a flat plane (*sole) rather than a radiused plane (*sole).

Card Scrapers

Card scrapers are great for smoothing surfaces if you know how to sharpen them and use them. Otherwise, you can just use sandpaper for smoothing. In a pinch, a razor blade can quickly and easily be honed into an effective mini-scraper, simply by drawing the razor’s edge across an edge of hard steel, such as the edge of your bandsaw table.

Large Backsaw

The backsaw is designed for precision cuts. Unlike most other saw types, the backsaw has a metal rib, opposite the cutting edge, to limit flexing of the blade. The only drawback is that the metal rib prevents you from cutting beyond a certain depth. The larger variety of backsaws, which you see here, is not of much use unless you do not have access to power tools and need something heavy duty for cross cuts.

Dovetail Saw

The dovetail saw is a small backsaw set to leave a narrow kerf. I keep 2 10″ dovetail saws on hand: A low quality saw for my rough cuts and a high quality saw with a kerf specifically designed for cutting fret slots.

Japanese Pullsaw

The Japanese pullsaw has a thin blade and it cuts on the pull stroke. This saw doesn’t see a whole lot of action in my shop because I do my rip cuts on the table saw or the bandsaw. However, if you are working without the use of power tools, then the pullsaw may be a viable option.

Razor Saw

The razor saw can be found at hobby stores. It is similar in form and function to the dovetail saw, just scaled down a bit. I use this saw to cut notches in my braces.

Coping Saw

The coping saw is designed for cutting curves. I keep one around for a number of uses but, more often than not, the bandsaw replaces my need for a coping saw.

Jeweler’s Saw

The jeweler’s saw, on the other hand, is irreplaceable for fine inlay work. This is essentially a superfine coping saw. I use fine and extra fine blades. The blades come in packs of 20 or more because breaking a blade is a relatively common occurrence.

Cam Clamps

Wooden cam clamps are the backbone of a luthier’s clamp supply. They are lightweight, quick and easy to use, have a secure grip and a high clamping pressure, though not as high as other clamps.

C-Clamps

C-Clamps are a bit more heavy duty. If you’re just getting started I would recommend picking up 4″, 1 1/2″, and some deep reach c-clamps. I would recommend 2 of each.

“Ibex” Bridge Clamps

Ibex bridge clamps are lightweight clamps designed specifically for gluing the bridge to the soundboard.

Spring Clamps

Spring clamps are lightweight, low cost, and even easier to use than cam clamps. Just squeeze the trigger and release. The tradeoff is in strength. Spring clamps are only as strong as their spring. They are great for any situation where you simply need an extra hand. The relatively light hold is enough for aligning and marking out dimensions.

Files

A variety of flat, round and triangular files find many uses throughout the build process. These need not be expensive items. In fact, a single set containing a variety of files can be purchased for very cheap at most hardware stores. Make sure your file set includes a rasp.

Needle Files

Needle files are equally useful and equally inexpensive. Once again, you will want a variety of flat, round and triangular files.

Nut Slotting Files

As the name implies, nut slotting files are designed specifically with nut slotting in mind. The nut slots are cut to the exact diameter of that slot’s string or slightly larger. Therefore, you will need a variety of nut slotting files to match or very nearly match the gauges of your strings.

Razor Knife

A razor knife with a variety of razor blade attachments can be immensely useful, and for very cheap. I also keep single edge razor blades handy for use as mini scrapers among other uses.

Fret Nippers

Any set of strong nippers will work but I like these fret nippers from Stewart Macdonald because the front face is ground flat, allowing the nippers to reach in flush with the fretboard. Of course, you can always use an ordinary set and grind the front face flat yourself.

Fretting Hammer

An ordinary carpenter’s hammer will not work for hammering frets, as it will mar the fretwire. The ideal fretting hammer is lightweight and has a plastic or a brass head. The hammer I most commonly use is filled with shot, making it a deadblow hammer. This reduces recoil and makes fretting just a little bit easier.

Fret Press

You can also avoid hammering altogether, and press your frets in instead. I often hammer my frets in but then use the Jaws II fret press, pictured here, to press in any fret ends that did not seat well.

6″ Square

A 6″ square of decent quality should be the only square that you need for marking and checking for square.

Straightedges

Reliable straightedges are essential. For guitar work, it is good to have an 18″ and a 24″ straightedge. I also own a notched straightedge. This straightedge is notched to fit over the frets. That way I can check the relief of the fretboard without the frets interfering with the measurement. This is, of course, useful for guitar setup and repair work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tools noted:

#5 Jack plane
Thumb Plane
Block Plane
Chisels
Spokeshave
Card Scrapers
Dovetail Saw
Japanese Pullsaw
Razor Saw
Large Backsaw
Coping Saw
Jeweler’s Saw
Cam Clamps
C-Clamps
Ibex Bridge Clamps
Spring Clamps
Files
Needle Files
Nut Slotting Files
Razor Knife and Razor Blades
Fret Nippers
Fretting Hammer
Fret Press
6″ Square
Straightedges
Caliper
Feeler Gauges
Protractor
Radius Gauges
Radius Blocks
Fret Bender
String Spacing Ruler
Heat Gun
Drill
Laminate Trimmer
Plunge Router
Various Rulers
Inspection Mirror
Dremel Tool
Bending Iron
Random Orbital Sander
Dremel Base
Circle Cutter

Equipment:
Bandsaw
Bench Grinder
Belt Sander
Drill Press
Router Table
Table Saw
Drum Sander

Was this useful? I would love to hear your questions or comments! I try to answer every e-mail I receive, so please be patient with me :) eric@ericschaeferguitars.com

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Making a Shooting Board

Eric Schaefer Guitars’ Online Guitar Building School

 

This is a free video from the “Building an OM Acoustic” Course. Click here for more free video tutorials.

Lesson Transcript:
The shooting board is a jig used in conjunction with a handplane to square up stock.
The workpiece rests on the upper shelf against the backstop while a handplane rides along the lower shelf.
A sanding stick can also be used instead of the handplane.
First, the upper shelf is attached to the lower shelf.
Then the backstop is attached to the upper shelf.
And finally, a batten is attached to the underside of the jig so that the jig can be held steady against the workbench.
I also add a toggle clamp for securing the workpiece to the upper shelf.
Okay, now that we understand the basic steps, lets get started:
Okay so now we are going to build ourselves a shooting board. This here is a shooting board. It is a little bit of an extra long shooting board. That’s because a lot of the things that we will be working with; the sides, the neck, tend to be longer pieces.
So, it is a little helpful for an instrument maker to have a shooting board with that extra length.
In total this is 36″ in length.
So let’s take a look at the parts I already have cut up right here for this.
This is the base platform.
I cut this to the dimensions of 14.5″ X 36″.
And then this is going to go right over top.
This is 10″ by 36″.
This is our backstop. 2″ X 10″.
And underneath we are going to have a 2″ X 14.5″batten screwed to the bottom.
It helps you to secure the jig in place when you are using it, so we’ll screw that to there and then when we are using the jig and putting forward pressure on it with out handplane, it’s not going to continue tp push forward and slide on us. This batten on the bottom will help hold it in place.
This is 3/4″ plywood or particle board.
You can use plywood. You can use MDF. MDF is always really great. It holds up really well to changes in humidity and things like that. Particle board works fine though. It is cheap. So we’re going to use that.
Okay, so let’s get started.
The first step is to drill pilot holes for the screws. I am using 1 1/4″ screws. About 2″ from the edge on each side, I make marks for my screw locations and then drill. Each screw is about 6″ apart.
I put a clamp on one end and for the other end, beacuse I don’t have a clamp that reaches back there, I am going to put a weight on it. That is just to hold it in alignment while I drill these holes.
Now I use a countersink bit so that the screws will sit below the surface of the jig.
Apply wood glue and screw in place.
So while that is curing, we can keep working on this. I do want to clean up any squeeze out that comes out along this edge, though.
Okay, next we want to screw down the backstop. That is our 2″ by 10″ piece. I am going to add this nifty toggle clamp but you don’t have to.
I got by for years without this thing, but now I really like having this on the jig so you can clamp down whatever you are working on.
I just want to mark this off; where it’s going to be on our 2″ by 10″ piece, so that I don’t put a screw beneath it where these screws are supposed to go.
Drill 4 pilot holes. Apply glue. And screw in place.
Now I am going to add the batten to the bottom.
Here’s our 2″ by 14.5″.
It is going to be 11″ up from this end.
So let’s measure that out.
Okay, so this is going to go right on that line.
Now we can drill our pilot holes.
I’m not too concerned with where these pilot holes are; just two on this side, two on that side.

Was this useful? I would love to hear your questions or comments! I try to answer every e-mail I receive, so please be patient with me :) eric@ericschaeferguitars.com

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Making a Guitar Mold

Eric Schaefer Guitars’ Online Guitar Building School

 

 

This is a free video from the “Building an OM Acoustic” Course. Click here for more free video tutorials.

Lesson Transcript:
For this course, we are going to use an outside guitar mold. The mold is used during the side bending process and the soundbox assembly process. It also helps you mark out important dimensions in the early stages of the build.
First, we will make a template.
Then we will trace the template onto 3/4″ MDF, plywood, or particle board and cut 6 sections.
each section is then atteched to the original template for refinement on the router table.
The 6 sections are glued together to create 2 pieces.
Hardware is installed to hold the two pieces together and a wooden dowel is installed at the joints to keep the pieces properly aligned.
For my template I am using half of a spare OM mold that I had in my shop, but you will have to create your own template from scratch, using your plans as a guide. To do this, trace half of your guitar’s outline onto tracing paper.
Stick the tracing paper to 3/4″ particle board, MDF, or plywood with spray contact adhesive.
Cut on the line with a bandsaw.
I use a 1/4″ blade or smaller so that it can handle the curves.
Take your time and strive for consistent curves. All major inconsistencies can be smoothed out with 80 grit sandpaper wrapped around a wooden dowel. Minor inconsistencies can be ignored.
As far as precision goes, the inside cut is what really counts. The outside cut can be rough cut to any shape as long as it is about 3 to 5 inches from the inside cut.
Finally, drill 3 holes for use in mounting the template.
Now this is actually just another piece from another mold that I have.
I’m re-purposing it as a template for other molds.
So, with that in mind, yours does not need to be as bulky as this is.
In fact, you could just use a single piece of 3/4″ plywood or something even thinner (half inch plywood would work just fine).
That way, you could carefully, on a bandsaw, cut out the shape as precisely as you can. Because once you cut out that shape we are going to use that first template that you make, that should look something like this, to make the other pieces.
There is going to be 6 pieces overall, 3 stacked on top of each other as you can see here. Having that template makes it real easy. We can make exact copies of each piece using the router with a guide bearing bit.
So now we have our particle board out on the floor. And I’m going to use this template that I made here and trace out 6 copies of this.
So instead of taking this straight to the bandsaw, because it is so big and cumbersome, we’re going to first see if we can cut this up a little bit in place here using a jigsaw. You can use a circular saw. If you have a friend with you, you can take it over to the bandsaw, or the table saw.
I am just going to break it down first this way into some slightly smaller pieces and then we can cut it on the bandsaw.
Okay, now these are small enough to fit in the bandsaw.
So we want to stay about 1/16″ outside this line.
That way, when we take this over to the router table, we will have very little wood left over for that router bit to remove.
So we’ll stay nice and tight to the line.
Okay so now we are going to attach our template to the first piece, so that we can clean up those edges on the router table.
So what I’m going to do is I’m going to hang this over the end like that, and line this up, so that the bottom piece is overhanging just slightly, everywhere.
Okay, both sides are clamped. Let me just look around the edge and make sure we are overhanging a little bit.
And I didn’t drill any pilot holes. If you are using particle board or MDF you don’t need to drill pilot holes.
We can just drive those screws through and it won’t split.
So we are going to use a 1/2″ straight cut bit with a guide bearing. That is what this little wheel is right here.
And so I already have that set up in a good place. The guide bearing is up here against the template.
Now remove the template, attach it to the next section, and continue routing until all 6 sections are complete.
Okay so we’ve cut 6 of these. I’m going to pull 3 over to make our first half of our mold. We’re going to hang this over the edge a little bit.
What I first want to do, is very carefully take my time and get this lined up so that all the pieces are flush with each other.
And I could check that with a square or something but I’m not going to. I can just feel for any overhanging edges. That is pretty good there.
I carefully clamp this up, making sure it doesn’t move. The whole purpose of this is that we are going to drill 2 holes here so we can have locating screws there to keep everything in alignment when we glue all these pieces together.
Otherwise, if we put the glue on there without the locating screws, the whole thing will slide around in the glue once we tried to clamp it down. So this will help us maintain alignment.
No need to measure this out.
So then these 2 screws will go in here. We’re not going to put them in there just yet. So now we can take this apart and we can spread the glue.
I let the glue cure overnight, and now we are ready to remove the clamps and attach the hardware.
Okay, we have the two pieces. Now let’s just add our hardware to it.
The first thing I want to do is mark the holes for this and drill. So I want to set this up for a little more than 1/4″ from this edge here. The reason why I am not super precise is because this handle here is adjustable. Once we get this on, you can always adjust the tension of this arm.
Let’s mark the other piece, which faces this way.
Okay, let’s drill that.
We have the correct size bit for the screws and I put a little flag on there as a depth stop so I drill only as far as I need to drill.
Okay, now we are going to drill for the dowel, which will keep this alignment correct, as far as side to side.
You see that? If we don’t put the dowel in there, it can pull apart like that. So we put the dowel in there to keep it together.
I’m going to clamp it in place at the edge of my workbench.
I’m using a 1/2″ dowel, but really you can use any size dowel, as long as the bit you use matches the size of the dowel.
And this does.
I’m using a forstner bit because it leaves a flat bottom.
I’m just going to rest the brad point right on that line that separates the two pieces.
I’m going to set the depth of the bit. We don’t want to go all the way through.
I’m just going to go down most of the way. I’m going to go halfway through the third sheet of particle board.
So I put a tape flag on here to mark where that will be.
Okay, let’s do the other side.
Press that all the way down to the bottom and I’m just going to mark this off, and cut that real quick on the bandsaw.
Okay, and to glue this in place, very simple, I’m just going to run a bead of glue down the edge like that. Press it in place. Place some wax paper over, so we don’t glue the whole thing stuck together.
And to clamp we can just close that up, just like that.
Okay, let that glue cure for about an hour and you’re good to go!

Was this useful? I would love to hear your questions or comments! I try to answer every e-mail I receive, so please be patient with me :) eric@ericschaeferguitars.com

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Jointing the Plates

Eric Schaefer Guitars’ Online Guitar Building School

 

This is a free video from the “Building an OM Acoustic” Course. Click here for more free video tutorials.

Was this useful? I would love to hear your questions or comments! I try to answer every e-mail I receive, so please be patient with me :) eric@ericschaeferguitars.com

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Want to learn more? Take a class with Eric Schaefer and build your own guitar in 8 days

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